Just found this in Waverley Root's very entertaining "The Food of France", written in 1958:
"From abroad, France appears as the leader of Western culture and civilization. So indeed she is, but the distant view reveals only the top of the iceberg, whose massive submerged base remains unsuspected. If France is universally the country of unfailing taste, how do you account for French hotel wallpaper? The fact is that France is not only one of the greatest artistic and intellectual countries in the world; it is also one of the most bourgeois countries in the world."
(He goes on to say, "These two tendencies, so hostile in some settings, marry perfectly in the kitchen." But that is another story)